Issue #41

The Japanese Shirtmakers You Need on Your Radar

November 13th edition
November 13th edition
The Japanese Shirtmakers You Need on Your Radar

Words by Cory Ohlendorf | Photography courtesy

Japan has never been content to simply replicate classic menswear. The Japanese way is to study it, tweak it and then perfect it. From denim to workwear, Japanese designers have long taken Western archetypes and reinterpreted them through a uniquely meticulous lens. The result is clothing that feels timeless yet distinctive—familiar in form but better in almost every way possible, from fabric and fit to finishing touches. It’s that mix of quiet precision and obsession with craft that turns something simple into something exceptional.

Right now, you can really see this in shirting. Across Tokyo and beyond, a new generation of Japanese shirtmakers are bringing craft and character back to the everyday button-up. From traditional makers to small-batch ateliers, they’re offering shirts that look great and make you feel damn good. And isn’t that the job of a great shirt? Besides being versatile and built to last? Of course, these made-in-Japan shirts are all of those things.

Whether you prefer a classic Ivy-style oxford or a boxy, relaxed take on a vintage military shirt, these brands prove that no one obsesses over the details quite like Japan’s finest. Here are the brands that deserve a place in your rotation right now. Grab one of these shirts and thank us later.

Maker’s Shirt (Kamakura Shirts)

For those who worship at the altar of the collar roll, Maker’s Shirt (better known as Kamakura Shirts) is holy ground. Founded in1993 with the mission to rival Savile Row and classic American brands, Kamakura delivers finely tuned dress shirts that balance structure and softness with almost mathematical precision. The quality-to-price ratio is borderline absurd (it’s even better if you buy in Japan) and the brand’s unwavering dedication to traditional craftsmanship keeps them a quiet favorite among menswear insiders.

Our Pick: Vintage Ivy button-down oxford, $120

A perfect daily driver with the signature Kamakura collar roll and clean, unfused construction that sits beautifully under a sport coat or sweater.

SabiN

SabiN operates in the space between tailored and casual, balancing sleek minimalism with rugged masculinity and a hint of artistic imperfection. The name is portmanteau of Japanese words that roughly translates to “beauty expressed through the passage of time, but will never rust”. I think that’s fitting because these are shirts that feel fresh and yet grounded in history, so they have a timeless quality. The brand’s creative director, Ryo Saito, told me that he bases the designs on vintage military shirts, but cuts them from refined, elegant fabrics. Think oversized flap pockets, side-adjuster tabs and drape that moves with the wearer. Each shirt feels polished, but also like a well-worn favorite you’ve owned for years. It’s the Japanese approach to sprezzatura: effortless but deeply considered.

Our Pick: Ombre check fatigue shirt jacket, $184.50

Cut from a smooth rayon twill fabric, the military details and boxy fit make this a great layering piece.

Tokyo Wednesday Club

After reading David Marx’s Ametora, the founders of Tokyo Wednesday Club were deeply inspired by the Miyuki-zoku—the young pioneers of Japanese men’s fashion—and their old school sartorial passion. They tell me that “the OCBD shirt is the ultimate standard—it’s timeless and versatile, transcending gender, age, season and occasion.” Everything, from the fabric to the buttons, is made in Japan. Their oxford cloth is a traditional Banshu weave made from 100% U.S. cotton yarns. Cut and sewn in Tokyo, the brand faithfully recreated the details and silhouettes of the 1960s American original that defined the modern button-down shirts.

Our Pick: Blue candy stripe oxford, $200

As you wear and wash it, the shirt breaks in beautifully, offering that familiar comfort only a well-made OCBD can deliver.

The Business Shirt
Absorbent Waffle Towels

Located on the island of Shikoku in Ehime Prefecture, Imabari is a quaint coastal city that’s earned the nickname of Japan’s “towel capital”. To be considered “Imabari towels”, they not only need to be made in the region but also shipped under a certification label which guarantees they meet certain standards of quality. These stylish waffle-textured  towels are made with long-staple Pima cotton and loomed in the oldest, family-run mill in Imabari. Available in five colors, they’re engineered so that they absorb water efficiently. This not only means they get you drier faster, but also dry on the towel bar relatively quickly compared to many heavy terry towels.

Proper Towel Care

Get It

From $58 (for 2) by Imabari Towel

Some words in Japanese don't exactly translate. Have you heard of ...
Oubaitori

(ILLUSTRATION: BirdSong)

The old Japanese idiom, oubaitori (桜梅桃李), comes from the kanji for the four beloved trees that blossom in Japan: cherry, plum, peach and apricot. The core idea is that each flower blooms in its own unique time and way, and just as these flowers are not comparable, people should focus on their own individual journey of growth and blooming rather than judging and comparing themselves against others. It’s a refreshing change from the western craze of ‘’Keeping up with the Joneses”. Oubaitori is about enjoying a fulfilling life by doing what’s right for you, at the time and in the manner that is right for you.

If I was in Tokyo this weekend, what would I be doing ...

Indulge
With Pancakes

Located on the lower level of the Marunouchi Building, this small shop produces and sells fresh butter made from milk sourced from cows raised in Biei, Hokkaido. A stack of pancakes comes with a full stick.

BUTTER
2-4-1 Marunouchi, Marunouchi Building, B1
Chiyoda City, Tokyo 100-0005


Check Out
Some Anime

Celebrating 30 years of Evangelion, the All of Evangelion exhibition at Tokyo City View will showcase anime's history and production process.

All of Evangelion
6−10−1 Roppongi Hills, Mori Tower
Minato City, Tokyo 106-0032

Eat Some
Oden

Now that it’s getting cold, grab a steaming bowl of oden—a Japanese comfort food that features ingredients like boiled eggs, daikon radish, and various fish cakes simmered and stewed in a rich, soy-flavored dashi broth. This shop specializes in it.

Kamekou
4-10-6, Ginza
Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061

That’s all
for this week.

We’ll see you back here next Thursday.

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