Issue #30

Japan’s Most Storied Sneaker Brand

Bandana

May 22nd edition
May 22nd edition
The Retro Japanese Sneaker Everyone Wants

Words by Cory Ohlendorf | Photography courtesy of Onitsuka Tiger

As we said over on Valet., the biggest trend in sneakers is that they’re getting smaller. Meaning that the super-sleek, slim, low-profile trainer is the shoe to have right now. Of course, that calls to mind the adidas Samba, which no doubt kicked off this trend. But its ubiquity has stylish men and women looking for an alternative and it seems like many agree that the kicks made by Onitsuka Tiger are the ones to have.

The Japanese brand was founded back in 1949. After World War II, Japan was still weighed down by a lingering sense of stagnation. Kihachiro Onitsuka saw the vitality of the nation's youth as the key to its recovery and set out to support that vision by creating sports shoes. Following tireless trial and error, he crafted his first pair of basketball shoes and named the brand Tiger, inspired by Asia’s most powerful and agile animal—a symbol of the performance he aimed to deliver. The company would later go on to become ASICS, but not before making history with a now-iconic name: Onitsuka Tiger.

The company was continually doing R&D, absorbing athletes’ insights and tirelessly conducting real world testing in constant pursuit of innovation. As athletes wearing Onitsuka Tigers began clinching medals at the Olympic Games, Onitsuka Tiger became a name known around the world. In fact, in there's one sneaker that defines Onitsuka Tiger, it’s the Mexico 66.

A sound mind in a sound body.

In the archive room at the ASICS headquarters in Kobe, there is a private recreation of Kihachiro Onitsuka’s office. On the large desk sits a small notebook he carried everywhere with him during his lifetime. Between its weathered leather covers, are inspiring quotes like “a sound mind in a sound body.” In the face of unexpected illness or continuous failures of trial and error, the phrase drew him back to his feet once more, to try again and again. For Onitsuka, such words brought a surge of energy.

Released in 1966 in preparation for the 1968 Mexico City Olympics, this low-profile sneaker introduced the now-famous crossed stripes that have become the brand’s visual calling card. And its look widely influenced the running shoes of its era. It's the same pair Bruce Lee wore in Game of Death, and later mimicked by Uma Thurman in Kill Bill. With their grippy rubber soles and flaps across the heels reading “Tiger” in a gothic font, these timeless kicks have an authentic vintage vibe. The Mexico 66 isn’t just a sports shoe—it’s a cultural artifact, straddling the worlds of streetwear, heritage style and global fashion. It’s seen on both men and women, celebrities and tastemakers. It makes sense, the low-profile sneakers look great with the throwback ’90s wide-leg pants and other Y2K fashions that are popular at the moment.

Of course, they weren’t always this hot. By the late 1980s, the Onitsuka name had faded as ASICS became the company’s main brand. But in 2001, ASICS quietly resurrected Onitsuka Tiger as a lifestyle line—and the timing worked out. The early 2000s saw a growing appreciation for archival sneakers, minimalist Japanese design, and retro sportswear. The shoes had a slight under-the-radar appeal while providing a certain flavor of downtown Tokyo Cool, no matter where you were in the world.

TOKUTEN, $145

Since its revival, the Mexico 66 has been reworked and enriched by numerous collaborations and limited editions, adding vibrant color to its evolutionary journey. Even a glimpse at the current variations highlights the model’s astonishing variety, with endless possibilities in color, material and details. Few sneaker models worldwide boast such extraordinary and extensive variety.

When I told some people I was writing about Onitsuka Tiger, a few brought up that they’d heard that the brand stopped selling its products in the U.S. And this is true: It discontinued American sales in the Fall of 2023, but later reopened their online American store last summer, so they are once again shipping the sneakers to the States.

A Color-Coordinating Guidebook

Have you been wanting to wear more color but don’t know exactly how to incorporate it into your wardrobe? This small book could help (while also making a handsome addition to your coffee table or bookshelf). The book is based on Sanzo Wada’s original six-volume work from the 1930s. Wada was an artist, teacher, costume and kimono designer during a formative time in avant-garde Japanese art and cinema. This book offers 348 color combinations, presented in easy swatches to help you see what shades and hues complement each other. The book has a practical, old school design, which is maybe why it’s suddenly become a favorite of fashion guys and girls. Currently, there are over 19 million search results on TikTok under the book’s title, mostly featuring creators who use it as a guide to getting dressed.

What's Inside?

Get It

$17.80 at Amazon

Some words in Japanese don't exactly translate. Have you heard of ...
Kuchisabishii

(ILLUSTRATION: 'Bungo Stray Dogs')

Kuchisabishii (口寂しい) is a Japanese phrase that translates to “lonely mouth”, but means something more like “longing to have or put something in one’s mouth”. Though it’s been more creatively explained to me by locals as “eating when you are not hungry because your mouth craves something crunchy or sweet”. And instead of feeling guilty for giving into a craving or mindless eating out of boredom, kuchisabishii is about shaping it as a natural feeling and a forgiving experience. Treat yourself.

I want to relax on a scenic Tokyo rooftop garden.

Tokyu Plaza
Harajuku Harakado

What Tokyo lacks in space, it makes up for with ingenious high-rise solutions. So the next time you're looking to retreat from the crowds, head to the roof. This lush alfresco terrace is connected to the food court of the Tokyu Plaza Harajuku Harakado. The multi-level spot has tropical flowers and palm trees to create a green urban oasis with views of the bustling Harajuku-Omotesando intersection below.

Tokyu Plaza Harajuku Harakado
6-31-21 Jingumae
Shibuya, Tokyo

Ginza Six

The upscale shopping center has an almost-secret 4,000 square meter rooftop featuring a suitably stylish green garden, complete with a small shrine, wooden decks to sit on, and a water feature for kids to splash about in. Few people take the elevator up there, but it’s lovely with panoramic views of the fancy Ginza neighborhood.

Ginza Six
6-10-1 Ginza
Chuo-ku, Tokyo


Miyashita Park

This rooftop, complete with a skateboard park, a bouldering wall and even a sand-covered court that’s perfect for beach volleyball, is by far the highlight of the three-story Miyashita Park mall. You can grab a drink at the on-site Starbucks (designed by streetwear icon Hiroshi Fujiwara to look like a gas station) or grab some takeout from one of the mall’s restaurants and have a picnic on the open lawn area.

Miyashita Park
6-20-10 Jingumae
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

That’s all
for this week.

We’ll see you back here next Thursday.

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